Chasing the Aurora Borealis in Tromsø

After being inspired by the works of the Norwegian landscape photographers Frøydis Dalheim, Even Tryggstrand and Tor-Ivar Næs, I insisted that we add a visit to the northernmost Nordic lands. Svalbard was our first choice, however given the complete lack of daylight at this time of year and the need for a shotgun wielding escort (protection from polar bears), we decided that Tromsø was a better option. Tromsø affords surprisingly mild weather for its location and, when the weather is clear, the skies can put on a spectacular light show. Between late September to early April, the night skies are regularly lit up by a phenomenon known as the Aurora Borealis. To locals, this is often a nightly treat and are consequently bemused by the hordes of tourists that spend just one night in Tromsø hoping to see the spectral performance.

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During our 3 day visit in December, we were lucky enough to witness a glorious display of green lights dancing across the sky. The lights result when electrically charged particles from the sun (solar wind) collide with gas particles in the Earth’s atmosphere. The green auroral hue is produced by oxygen molecules at about 130km above the Earth’s surface. Whilst there are many tours available, I recommend you book a small group or private tour as these offer a more personal experience.

After doing some research (and praying for clear skies), we booked a 6 hour Northern Lights Chase with Tromsø Friluftsenter on our last night in Tromsø. Our gorgeous guide Trine, met us along with 11 other eager light chasers at our hotel. We were swiftly whisked away via minibus towards Trine’s lávvu (tepee-like Sámi shelter) in Risvika. The first leg of the journey took approximately 40 minutes and involved a brief lesson on the science behind Aurora Borealis, followed by some interesting Norse folklore… beware of the Trolls!

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Upon arrival, we were carefully escorted by Trine and her father towards the lávvu. The lávvu is located on Trine’s property, bordered by the calm Kvaløya coastline. It can be difficult to navigate around in the darkness of the remote location, yet darkness is essential when viewing the Northern Lights.

If you are unfortunate to experience cloudy conditions, this will likely lead to a ‘chase’ in search of a visible gap in the clouds. We were warned that if weather was poor, then we may need to drive further north towards Finland for a chance at seeing the elusive lights. So we were fully prepared for a long, cold evening! Fortunately, we had the most amazing clear skies, so no chasing was necessary.

In the comfort of the lávvu, our group gathered around a warm bonfire, roasting marshmallows, devouring homemade chocolate cake and sipping on hot tea and coffee while sharing travel stories and getting to know each other. Trine discussed the historical significance of her family property, an old farm now home to a 4th generation farmer. Scandinavian folklore and mythology have alternate, yet interesting interpretations of the Northern Lights; the Indigenous Sámi people believed the lights to be dead souls with magical powers.

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With modern technology comes the convenience of a Northern Lights App, yes – a phone app, which Trine used to carefully monitor the activity of the lights. This convenience was a real bonus as the temperature had now fallen below freezing. As we awaited activity alerts, Trine offered photography tips and help set up tripods where needed. In terms of equipment, you absolutely *must* bring your DSLR camera. Phone cameras are simply not equipped to capture the full spectrum of lights and do very little to contrast any landscape you might wish the include. Use a tripod (provided) and remote to avoid any movement. Be aware of your surroundings and try not to step in front of someone else’s camera. Now you are set!

As the lights began to appear, they were quite faint… a dim shade of green. A few minutes later, the green hue began to grow vibrant. Vibrance seemed cyclical and lasted only a few minutes. With excitement, I would check my photos every few seconds. It’s probably a good idea to check regularly to ensure you have the optimal settings in place. It’s also interesting to note that observing the Northern Lights with the naked eye is very different to what is captured by a camera. The camera is able to soak up more light than the human eye… not to mention heavily post-edited Instagram photos responsible for vivid imagery. Nevertheless, witnessing the elusive Aurora Borealis glow in real life is something every human should do!

Note that there are over a hundred companies that offer Northern Lights tours in Tromsø. We chose this tour after reading many traveller reviews. Thanks to Trine of Tromsø Friluftsenter for an unforgettable experience. Truly hope to do the experience again!